Changing strings

This is something that players usually do themselves, which is good, because it's not one of my favourite jobs. Unfortunately I'm often confronted with some odd spaghetti tangles and end up having to redo it anyway. So here's a quick tutorial:

There are several different methods, but this one is easy. It may look a bit odd with the long tails, but these can be trimmed with a pair of wire cutters if desired. They are however useful as when you want to remove the string, all you need to do is loosen the tension and then thread the tail back through the hole and you've saved yourself an awful lot of winding. To put on a new string thread it through the hole leaving a longer tail for a shorter mensure (vibrating string length) and a thinner cone. Wind once around the inside and then aim for 2 to 4 windings on the outside, depending on the thickness of the string and the distance of the hole to the peg box wall - as you can see in the picture. Hold the string taut with one hand while winding with the other. This makes the windings much neater and gives you a better idea of how much tail to leave. It's good when there are enough windings for the string to lie snugly against the wall of the peg box.

• Avoid letting the windings cross over each other.
• Avoid taking off all the strings at once as the bridge and maybe also sound post will come loose.
• Change the outer 2 strings first followed by the inner strings, it's easier that way and the tension is more even on the instrument.
• Keep an eye at all times on the bridge. It has a tendency to lean up towards the fingerboard as the strings are being tightened. Just press it back into place if this happens.
• It can also be a good idea to lubricate the string grooves at the bridge and saddle with an ordinary graphite pencil.

If you have a string that you can see is a bit short just thread the string through the hole, wind once and then thread the end of the string over the winding, back through the hole and carry on tuning up.